Chase Outdoors

A Whale approaches Pierre Larue

Josee Paquet and Nancy Chase sea kayaking Cape Breton Island

We’d spotted a pod of whales just a couple of hours earlier.  Alas, as we approached them, they turned out to sea, presumably in pursuit of a more tantalizing menu than three human propelled fiberglass sea kayaks.  While my two paddling companions were inclined to give chase, I resisted insisting I lacked the stamina for an exhausting day of whale stalking in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Magically, as we paddled north along the towering cliffs and rocky coastline of the western shore of Cape Breton Island, we were enveloped by about a dozen curious, playful pilot whales. 

“What to do?” I asked myself as the large marine mammals dove and emerged amongst us.  Torn between compelling urges to savor the moment, take photos and avoid being accidentally capsized by the frisky behemoths, I opted to multi-task simultaneously attempting all three.  The result was a classic example of Jack-of-all-trades and master of none.  Bobbing in swells, I managed to balance my paddle on the spray skirt, remove the camera from my life jacket pocket and snap several quick shots while guardedly watching for a surprise surfacing by one of our new found aquatic friends.  A couple of fairly clear photos of two whales perilously close to Pierre and another of one approaching me were the best of my otherwise pathetic collection.  As an enormous pilot passed twenty feet starboard, I avoided the worst case scenario by desperately shoving my camera inside my life jacket and clumsily grabbing my paddle to remain upright.  Although we spent a week sea kayaking the coast of Cape Breton and exploring its scenic hiking trails, this was easily the high point of our visit. 

Cape Breton Island is part of the Province of Nova Scotia in Maritime Canada.  Connected to the mainland by a causeway at Port Hastings, Cape Breton Highlands National Park dominates the northern tip of the island, which juts out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence with tiny and remote Iles de la Madeleine to the northwest and distant Newfoundland northeast. Rugged, scenic, unspoiled, isolated and sparsely populated, Cape Breton Island is a hiking and sea kayaking paradise.  My wife Nancy and I joined friends Steve and Joline from Maine and Pierre, Josee, Louie and Francine from Quebec for an adventure with international implications.  Camping first on the west side of the island at Cheticamp and subsequently on the east shore at the Broad Cove Campground, we experienced a steady diet of exciting sea kayaking, scenic hikes and spirited communal dinners, with fresh, grilled fish purchased at local seafood markets frequently the fare.  Unfortunately, our DF (designated fisherman), Pierre, failed to deliver necessitating the added monetary expense.

A hike on the nearby le Buttereau Trail was on my agenda for the day of our arrival, a three mile trek with views of the coastline near the mouth of Cheticamp River.  Historic le Buttereau was the site of several subsistence farms until the Acadian inhabitants were evacuated when the National Park was created in the 1930s.  Those family names are now common in the village of Cheticamp.  For our first full day in the park, the group hiked the spectacular Skyline Trail a six mile jaunt that ends at a magnificent headland overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Living up to its reputation, raptors soared along the cliffs in search of prey, and whales were observed fishing the waters hundreds of feet below.  Presumably, they had more success than our DF.  Three of us finished this glorious day with a three mile sea kayak paddle along the west shore traveling south from Corney Brook to a small cove at Pillar Rock near Cheticamp.   

Day three was highlighted by our encounter with the whales.  Since bumpy seas were anticipated, most members of our party chose land bound activities.  Steve, Pierre and I made the correct choice as the waves and swells were moderate, weather superb and whales abundant.  Launching at Corney Brook, we traveled north for 11 miles past the cliffs of Cap Rouge, the Skyline Trail headland, White Capes and Wreck Cove Point to the beautiful fishing village of Pleasant Bay.  Along the way, we shared the dramatic, picturesque coastline with dozens of whales and several bald eagles perched menacingly on cliffs. 

An added benefit of sea kayaking off Cape Breton Island is the unusually warm water.  Inexplicably (at least for this oceanically challenged observer), the water temperatures run about 10 degrees warmer than our coastal waters in Maine, which is hundreds of miles farther south.  The warm water was particularly beneficial for our next day of paddling with brisk, gusty winds blowing from the southwest.  Nancy and Josee joined us as we departed from the causeway between the village of Cheticamp and Cheticamp Island and literally sailed northeast through the harbor.    As we turned a point opposite Gros Cap on Cheticamp Island, we encountered continuous spray from the winds as we navigated large, turbulent swells and breaking waves to a cove just south of Pillar Rock.  Describing it as a “crash landing” would not be an overstatement.  Nancy and Josee decided that re-launching in rough, choppy waves after lunch was not on their dance card.  No whales were observed as the three of us cruised along in four to six foot swells completing our 14 mile journey with another crash landing at Corney Brook.  

On day five, six of us decided to move to new digs at Broad Cove Campground on the east shore.  Traveling the park road which winds often steeply from Cheticamp through the mountains to Broad Cove, we enjoyed outstanding ocean views along both the western and eastern shores.  Arriving early afternoon, Pierre and I had sufficient time for a six mile hike on the Coastline Trail from Black Brook Cove to Neil’s Harbour and back.  This hike provides an interesting combination of high, rockbound cliffs, boulder-strewn shoreline and forested trail – not to mention the ubiquitous teenage boys diving off 50 foot vertical cliffs.  Not in the cards for this aging, compulsive outdoorsman who suffers from vertigo. 

Five of us chose a superb ten mile paddle from Neil’s Harbour south to Broad Cove for our final day of sea kayaking.  With the expansive and seemingly endless Atlantic Ocean to our left, we experienced gentle waters, warm air temperatures and breathtaking views on our trip.  The ragged coastline near Green Cove and Lakes Head provided numerous opportunities for navigating between gigantic rock formations and we enjoyed a long, relaxing lunch near Lakes Head before finishing our journey on the beach at Broad Cove.  Well, almost.  Pierre decided that his day would be incomplete without a circumnavigation of Ingonish Island a couple of miles farther south.  What better way to end a wonderful day of sea kayaking then with fresh grilled salmon purchased (not caught) in nearby Ingonish followed by a final day of hiking the nearby cliffs Cape Smokey? 

For information about more outdoor adventures, visit our website at www.ronchaseoutdoors.com.  Our book, Mountains for Mortals – New England, details the best mountain hikes in New England.  

A Large Sea Cave in the Apostle Islands

Happy Hour at Little Sand Bay Campground

The first time I encountered the Apostle Islands on a map, I was convinced they would offer great sea kayaking opportunities.  Part of Wisconsin, the Apostles are an archipelago located in southwestern Lake Superior.  What the map didn’t indicate was what a beautiful and pristine area it is and how many interesting sea caves are available for exploration.  I can’t really explain the attraction of sea caves, but I think most paddlers find they have a special appeal.  Maybe it’s the sense of mystery and adventure when reconnoitering dark, narrow underground waterways.  Or, perhaps it’s the challenge of navigating a kayak blindly through tight passageways expecting an abrupt collision at any moment.

Fortunately for Nancy and me, friends Barney & Sherry, who reside a few hours from the Apostles, are avid sea kayakers and familiar with the area.  Since we were traveling through Wisconsin, they offered to make arrangements for a few days of sea kayaking in this spectacular, wilderness area of Lake Superior.  This was truly the “perfect storm” of fortuitous circumstances as they invited their close friends, Bob & Maria, who have decades of paddling experience in the Apostles. They generously offered to lend us their tandem sea kayak for the undertaking.  What a country!

We met at Little Sand Bay Campground on the south shore of Lake Superior a few miles northwest of Bayfield, Wisconsin.  Several Apostle Islands are visible from the campground and it provides an outstanding launching point for day trips or extended expeditions on the lake.  I’m not sure about referring to Lake Superior as a lake.  We have large lakes in New England such as Champlain, Moosehead, Winnipesaukee and Sebago, but they’re mere tarns or ponds by comparison.  Superior is huge.  I’m thinking ocean or sea would be more appropriate.  Maybe North American Ocean or the Sea of Wisconsin, Ontario or Michigan – take your pick.  Because it’s so vast, Superior provides something else – unpredictable winds and weather.  Since the forecast called for several days of high winds, we opted for a more conservative agenda of day trips from the mainland.  That was the correct choice.

Great sea kayaking isn’t the only thing that abounds in the Apostles.  Black bears are also plentiful.  On our first night at camp a park official warned that a little bear “cub” was in the area and attempts to trap him were ongoing.  Just a few moments later a “cub” the size of a Volkswagen Bus approached a trap about 50 yards from our tent.  This was prime time Animal Channel viewing at its best.  While enjoying Happy Hour, we watched as the little fellow sized up the situation by curiously crawling over and around the large, cylinder shaped contraption.  Finally, he succumbed to the addictively tempting smell of peanut butter and crawled inside.  “Slam,” went the gate and he and Mayflower Movers were off to a new den.

Our first day of kayaking began with a breezy, two-plus mile open crossing to Sand Island, one of the western most Apostles.  Arriving in a bay on the east shore, we had our first encounter with sea caves haphazardly carved into the red, sandstone cliffs by thousands of years of fierce storms and violent waves.  Nancy and I watched our friends disappear into dark entrances.  It didn’t appear that there was sufficient space for a 17 foot sea kayak to navigate, let alone our 22 foot tandem boat.  Tentatively, we followed and began our explorations.  Steering our long craft through narrow, twisting passages with low hanging ceilings, we entered a murky, underground chamber that appeared to dead end.  Wondering if we could turn our kayak around in this small tomb-like enclosure, a tiny exit materialized and, once we entered, we could see the shadowy outline of our companions and sunshine beyond.  We spent another hour challenging one another to enter even smaller, deeper caverns and negotiating under and through arches of various sizes. 

A trip to Sand Island isn’t complete without visiting Sand Island Light Station, located on the northwest shore.  Since gusty winds were kicking up from the west, circumnavigating the rugged coastline didn’t seem prudent.  Instead, we hiked one mile across the island to the distinct and unique red lighthouse built of local sandstone in 1881.  After hiking back, we had a blustery return voyage in choppy swells.  Once safely ashore, Bob and Maria shared harrowing stories of boats capsized or blown miles off course during previous windy crossings.  “Now they tell us.”

Small craft warnings were posted for our second day of paddling. We found shelter from the dangerous westerly winds by launching on the east shore of the Red Cliff Indian Reservation.  Riding north through West Channel between the scenic red cliffs of the shoreline and Brasswood Island to our east, we passed the wooden, skeletal remains of an ancient shipwreck.  Continuing north, we explored more sea caves while rounding Red Cliff Point and stopped for a long, leisurely lunch on a sandy beach below the cliffs while enjoying views of about six of the Apostles.  Bob impressed (read that appalled) the entire group with an extended swim in the frigid lake with sub-fifty degree water temperatures.  Too much for this confirmed cold water sissy. 

Our final day of kayaking provided us with the most spectacular and extensive sea cave explorations of the trip.  Paddling northeast from Meyer’s Beach, we encountered what seemed to be about two continuous miles of caves carved into the shore almost directly south of Eagle Island. Dangerous waves and surf prevented entering the caves during our trip north.  However, the seas conveniently calmed for our return which permitted substantial investigations.  Only the reality of long drives for everyone in the group hastened our decision to end our explorations.

For more information on interesting outdoor adventures, visit our website at www.ronchaseoutdoors.com and for details of the best mountain hikes in New England, obtain a copy of our mountain guidebook, Mountains for Mortals – New England.